Bike Travel – Notes from the Road
Ljubljana to Venice
After 5 days of glorious sunshine, riding through some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe, I was leaving the town of Kobarid, Slovenia, when the skies darkened and a downpour began. My luggage had been sent ahead to Cividale, where I had intended to reach late afternoon, but I thought to find some shelter to let the storm pass. As luck would have it, I pulled into a charming Inn, called Hisa Franko, owned by Slovenian couple Valter and Anna. I later learned that this Inn and famed restaurant were known throughout Slovenia and Europe. I was met by Vander himself at the door who ushered me quickly inside, taking my bicycle and offering me a table in the glass enclosed dining room, where I could sit and decide on a plan. He suggested I stay the night but I responded that I didn’t have any clothes, just the wet bike kit I was wearing.
He disappeared into his house and came back with an Armani shirt, pants, socks and shoes and with that, I decided fate required me to stay over. After reading, and a wee snooze, I came down to dinner for what was to be one of the most memorable meals of my life. Before dinner, Valter showed me the kitchen, which was presided over by Anna, the chef du cuisine extraordinaire. And then it began – a 9 course tasting menu. Valter is a master sommelier with an extensive wine cellar and I lost count of how many bottles he opened to serve. Each was the perfect compliment for the perfect course. I rarely dine alone but the service and soul in this sacred room was such that boredom was impossible. After the last course, I was invited to the next table by a group of visitors from Denmark on a fly-fishing trip and Vander joined us with a bottle of Prosecco we which we enjoyed until after midnight. It was an extraordinary dinner and evening that I will not forget. But this was getting ahead of myself…
I was in Slovenia to develop a new cycling trip as the country has been getting some press lately about its attractions (NY Times, National Geographic Traveler and others). I knew the cycling was great from our guides who had traveled there extensively and I had an overview plan of what we wanted to do. We clearly wanted to start from Ljubljana and finish in the Friuli region of Italy, combining two countries. It made sense to us to begin in Slovenia because the prevailing wind is from the north - who likes riding into the wind? The other important reason is Vrsic pass, which has cobblestones on the north-side hairpin turns, which are not a problem to ride up, but potentially dangerous when descending – there are no cobblestones on the southern descent, and this days’ ride, descending the Soca valley ranks as one of the best all-time rides of my life. The scenery is that good.
When we research a new trip, we look to see what others are doing and obviously try to come up with something that is unique and better than any other trip. I think we have done it and if you read on you’ll see how. The first question to ask a tour operator is how they (and their tour) differs from what is out there.
How are we different?
The first thing to note in Slovenia, is that quality local bikes are simply not available, so we have brought in our own line of light-weight bikes with proper gearing (triples with shimano 105 with 11-32); you have a choice of hybrids or racing bikes. Lance Armstrong was wrong about a few things, and when he said ‘it is not about the bike’ we think that on a bicycle tour, it is, perhaps for many, ALL about the bike. We know that if you don't enjoy the ride, you won't enjoy much else.
The second thing of importance here is support. Our local Area Manager here has immense knowledge and will be on hand to ensure your trip goes smoothly; we have planned some key optional shuttles that will make the trip easier for those who want it to be. Hotels are obviously a key determinant in the quality of your trip. We don’t hide the names of where we stay. Our Classic trip stays at (NY Times recommended) Hotel Slon in Ljubljana, the Hotel Astoria in Bled, Hotel Mangart in Bovec and Al Pomo D'Oro in Cividale. The casual/B&B option stays at Lesar Hotel Angel in Ljubljana; Penzion Berc in Bled; Hram Martinov in Bovec and Il Roncal in Cividale. On our luxe trip, we enjoy the Antiq Palace Hotel & Spa in Ljubljana, 5-star Grand Hotel Toplice in Bled; luxurious Dobra Vila in Bovec and Al Castello in Cividale.
Our route begins in Ljubljana - we don’t think a trip to Slovenia should skip this city, which New York Times describes as having “ its fair share of charming Old World Plazas, baroque churches, and dramatic castles, and having a rich cultural scene that would be impressive in a city twice its size”. We have carefully researched the quietest routes in each of Slovenia and Friuli, Italy and with our extensive list of local contacts (you’ll meet some on tour), share our secret viewpoints, wine tasting opportunities, castles and more.
We don’t like to start comparisons by highlighting the value of our trip, but compared to the $4,000+ that, for example, Backroads charges for up to 24-25 people along with you, our trips offer superb value when considering the trip is customized for your dates. We make this promise: you will love your bike and the riding and you will experience Slovenia and Friuli in a way that only this kind of travel can.
IF YOU GO: Itineraries and additional information
Slovenia & Italy : Cycling 6 days;
Slovenia & Italy : Cycling 7 days;
Slovenia & Italy : Cycling 8 days;
Slovenia & Italy : Cycling 9 days;
P.S. if you prefer a guided trip, click here for Great Explorations trips and dates